This September, my husband and I had the pleasure of spending a month in Italy. Outside of our busy home of LA, we both prefer staying in the countryside, meeting the locals, eating local cuisine, and experiencing daily life in the area. Summer was ending, but I still wanted to find a place with some beach time. Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terra are both beautiful areas, but we wanted to find a place with fewer tourists. While looking on Airbnb, I zoomed in on the west coast of Italy in between those two areas and found an area called Maremma. Porto Ercole is a small town on the Tuscan Coast. We stayed at the Rocca Espagnole, which is a short but steep walk from the main town center. We enjoyed short hikes, relaxing at the beach, eating delicious seafood and visiting nearby towns. Our Airbnb had a small kitchen which was great for us since we both enjoy cooking. With some of our market buys, we made carbonara with fresh pasta and pancetta from the local macelleria (butcher shop) and steamed mussels.
The private grounds around the castle were limited to residents. We enjoyed the quiet gardens surrounding our Airbnb. Just a short 15 minute walk from the castle, we could rent chairs and umbrellas and lay out on these beautiful rocky beaches at Riva del Marchese. There is also a bar with espresso and some snacks available down near the beach.
I would definitely recommend grabbing a drink at sunset at Hotel Il Pelicano. The grounds are beautiful and the service is excellent!
There are so many beautiful areas you can drive to around Porto Ercole. Just a 15 minute drive gets you to the trailhead where you can hike up and see some amazing views from Torre di Capo d'Uomo. Along the small path, you'll pass by two houses with olive orchards, and continuous ocean views.
Spiagge d'Acqua Dulce
Where we stayed:
Rocca Espagnole
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/13331906
Private and beautiful quiet castle that overlooks the port. It's a short walk into the town center.
Where we ate:
Alicina Hosteria
Via San Sebastiano, 54, 58018 Porto Ercole, Monte Argentario GR, Italy
Great local seafood restaurant in the town center. We made reservations ahead of time for dinner.
Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola
58019 Porto Santo Stefano, Province of Grosseto, Italy
Food is fresh and good, but expensive. We mainly dined here for the amazing view!
Orbetello Market
via Caravaggio corner via Trento, just outside of the Porto Nuova
On Saturdays, you can buy fresh produce, fish and also meats from local butchers.
Hotel Il Pelicano
Località Sbarcatello, 58019 Porto Ercole GR, Italy
Sunset drinks at their bar that overlooks the water. Excellent service!
Where we went:
Hiking at Torre di Capo d'Uomo
A short but slightly challenging hike with great views.
Spiagge d'acqua dulce
Every beach in this area requires a pretty rocky and steep walk to reach the beach. This beach is definitely worth it! Mainly Italian tourists and locals.
Riva de la Marchese
Walkable from or Airbnb. Chairs and umbrella available for rent. Snack bar and coffee available near the beach.